Excuse my deeply not HA shift!
Finished my 3rd pair of stays! The pattern I used was the American Duchess 1760’s strapless back lacing stays. I cut 2 sizes smaller than my listed size on the packet - I did this because I have a lot of squish and can cinch down very easily - I have a 5 inch reduction in these stays, which is rather amazing, and I am completely comfortable, and have a proper 3 inch gap at the back. Also, when in my previous stays, they were not small enough to get anywhere near a 3 inch gap - I always cut to my size, and they always came out too large in the waist for me. So, given my weird cutting choice, of course there were sizing issues. I made so many adjustments! Firstly, I made them back lacing and front lacing, because I hate getting on back lacing stays - I can’t do it by myself (yet) and so I much prefer the easy wearing of front lacing stays. I also changed the boning layout to half-boned stays, since I didn’t have enough zip ties to make a fully boned pair. I added more fabric to the bust area, as I have a 32I cup bust and need extra room and support - otherwise these stays would have been an underbust. I also added straps to help with bust support.
Note: this pattern is more short waisted than I would like, and really gives a 1870’s/1880’s full tummy to the silhouette. I plan to remake these again, and lengthen the front.
#americanduchess #sewingproblems #1780s #18thcentury #18thcenturystays #staymaking #corsetry #fullerbust #homemade #sewing #historicalcostuming