Surfing has taught me much about life.
I picked it up a little over a year ago. At that time I had a deep fear of the , poor swimming skills and lacked any common sense in the water ♀️ I ate shit bad most days, surrounded by avid surfers looking at me with disgust & thinking: —> (idiot what are you doing here?! Get out of my way!) Some were kind and offered wonderful tips that really improved my skills I.e. don’t hold on to the rail when you pop up, if it’s a steep wave pull back or don’t take it because you’re going to nose dive/face plant (occasionally break your neck) stop wasting your energy paddling 20ft in front of the swell, etc.
The most memorable story was at #lajollashores when I paddled into almost every wave without looking. I dropped into to this beautiful ride, didn’t look right and knocked a woman off her board with my board and we both did the tumble ♀️ She cursed 🤬 me all the way to shore my bad... Last week I picked up a new leash that was too short and took a fin to the face, there was blood! But I’m officially a real surfer now they say This weekend I surfed 3 days in a row and realized I’ve gotten so much better!
Surfing has taught me to be patient, look out for others, have beach etiquette, build endurance, put in time, never give up, and not to live in fear. Sure there are sharks and sting rays and jelly fish, but there are also majestic dolphins and whales! More people probably die in car accident, but that doesn’t stop us from commuting
A lot of things I’ve learned while surfing I apply to other areas in life as well. There are so many ways you can learn beyond a classroom, you can learn through experience, but I never knew you could learn while playing. Biggest take away is this: when you start something new it takes time to become an expert, focus, work hard, stick to it even when others laugh at you, you make even get hurt, but your determination will pay dividends. You will reap what you sow! * * * * *
#fearless #surf #surfergirl #ocean #sandiego #matuse #kook #bestrong #girlpower #surfersparadise #endurance #resilience #life #lesson