This is the view @bradleynorris had moments before copping a 3 wave hold down. He was pulled onto the ski as he was blacking out with blood coming from his nose and ears! He described in detail the techniques used to survive the hold down and I encourage and recommend surfers to listen and learn some breathing techniques, when surfing big waves.
Link in bio and story for @grin_reapers Podcast .
Animation by @over_under_images
Make a Wish Hawaii @makeawishhawaii and @jamesdonnellyjr tuned in -
12yr old sparkling Delaney - suffering an aggressive form of cancer in her left thigh made a wish to go surfing in Hawaii one year ago and as they do “Make a Wish Foundation” got her covered - she had to pull up on that plan and go in for the surgery and adult chemo therapy - you’ll need more than raised axels and 4WD to move through that terrain. Surgeons and specialists were able to clear her of cancer only after amputating her leg above the effected area then separating the lower leg and reattaching the leg backward effectively creating a knee with the ankle joint that fits into a prosthetic leg which she now dances on. I want to thank her from the bottom of my heart for sharing her wish with us today, her eyes lit up like blue diamonds with an undeniable sign of pure joy
Joining in the surfing experience was her twin brother Cameron in the red jersey and father Noah who learned to surf in the frigid waters of the NE USA.
While her dear mother Melissa could be heard hooting from the shore...thank you again family Unger
Queen Kapiolani - “strive for the highest” @bulldodgelax @in.love.with.the.sea @ohanasurfproject :