Throughout the last two years, I have thought about the moment of finishing the Biographie many many times. And, as life mostly does, it played this card in the least suspected moment possible. Lazy morning. Why would have it been any different if the previous day greeted us with a continuous wall of rain and mist so thick we couldn't have even checked for the rock's quality.
@smaket_hunter, who was that day inexplicably optimistic, kept convincing me that the weather forecasts promised nothing but afternoon sun and what followed- easy breezy climb. So we got out and began the hike. It took me five minutes to start regretting it. Drizzle from the bottom to the top, mist following us like a very annoying shadow. We sat there ,under the rock, for an hour and a half, ate our lunch, almost giving up.
All of the sudden the clouds left the sky leaving us with great conditions and a rock that seemed to dry in no time.
My routine warm-up go went better than expected. I felt light as a feather, well-rested, slightly humid rock didn't seem to bother, the air was finally dry.
Half an hour later I was resting right before the main crux. Behind me was one of the hardest 8c+ routes in the world. Nothing special, I thought to myself, I have been there before, like 20 times before...
But this time, this time was a little bit different. I was fresh. Minty fresh. I tried to push those thoughts about getting to the last move away from me, as they have already stopped me from finishing the route so many times before. No pressure, just climbing. I went through the crux automatically, no emotions, no mistakes.
I got to a jug that basically holds you by itself, you basically cannot fall after getting to it. The thoughts came back. Where am I? How did this happen? Alrighty, but I was supposed to fall quite some time ago, thinking about how my time is about to come at some point, but not this point in time.
I needed some time to let it sink in. And it sank all the way to the top. All the 10 meters of an easy climb. Then some time on the very top. Scream. Applause. Tears. Wojtek's sincere smile. That moment it got to me - I have finished the Biographie