Everyone gets so excited about seeing bears in Yosemite but I prefer finding baby dragons.
@fred_pompermayer got this awesome photo of me speed climbing the Nose with @tommycaldwell a few days ago - Fred and his partners were climbing Triple Direct and it was the second morning that we were passing them. This time he was prepared with his camera! Lots of parties take pics with their phones as we climb through - it’s rare to pass a real photographer with a real camera. He really did El Cap justice!
@madaleinesorkin has partnered with the @americanalpine to create the Climbing Grief Fund (link in bio) which will provide free grief counseling related to climbing. She’s planning a big link up in the Black Canyon to draw attention to the new Fund and spread the word.
I think it’s important for the climbing community to be able to speak openly about the losses that occur through the sport. We’ve all lost friends and partners, particularly this year. Hopefully this will help us each more easily work through our grief. I’ve donated already at the link - I hope the Climbing Grief Fund can help some climbers through difficult times. I know that we all need a little help sometimes.
This is how @tommycaldwell looks after climbing the Nose in 3 hours - presumably he’ll look a little more tired if we ever climb it in 2 hours...
Good times on El Cap! @samuelcrossley discretely filming in the background for a possible eventual @reelrock piece. So fun to be climbing w Tommy again!
I had an amazing time at this year’s Climb the Hill event with the @accessfund and @americanalpine. Tons of climbers came together in Washington DC to speak to our elected officials and voice our support for public lands. Surprisingly, despite the current political climate and the myriad attacks on our public lands I felt like overall tone was more positive than last year. There seemed be more knowledge about climbing and the benefits of the outdoor recreation economy. And either way it felt good to engage with our representatives; that’s how government is supposed to work after all - you vote for someone and then tell them how you want to be represented. Not that it always does, but it’s nice to see the theory at least.
Overall, it was a good reminder to stay engaged and not take our wild spaces for granted. I want my kids to enjoy the same wild America that I have had the pleasure to climb in for so many years. Support the @accessfund if you want to keep America’s climbing secure.
Two helicopters in El Cap Meadow waiting to assist in the rescue of @hansflorine off of the Nose yesterday. He unfortunately injured both legs in a fall and ultimately got hauled to the top of the wall by Yosemite Search and Rescue. A sobering reminder to be careful out there, even on routes that we’ve climbed hundreds of times.
Injuries happen in climbing, and Hans has been in good spirits throughout and will surely recover ok, but for whatever reason I’ve been very moved by the whole thing. Hans taught me much of what I know about the Nose, and about speed climbing in general, and the idea of him being in so much pain on his most beloved route really saddens me.
As Hans always says, “Safety first, fun second, speed third.”
Stay safe out there, and send @hansflorine some love. He’s done a lot for the sport of climbing.
This is the interesting thing about short fixing - depending on your partner you run out of rope in various places and then get to hang out on weird stances waiting for more rope. Here I am midway up the Pancake Flake on the Nose waiting for more rope from @joshkmccoy. Fun fact: Josh was the first person I ever climbed El Cap with. We’ve both come a long ways since our initial 22 hour ascent of the Nose...
@austin_siadak perfectly framed by Middle Cathedral. He was up there to take photos but it turns out he was in the cooler position. The hunter became the hunted!
The Cathedral group! Last season I did a link up of all 5 Cathedrals in a day (Lower, Middle, Higher, and the two Spires), an idea given to me by @hansflorine back in the day. I didn’t climb anything harder than 5.11a, making it a pretty good link up for anyone looking for volume in the Valley. I guessed that it was about 5k ft of vertical climbing and a bunch of hiking around to actually summit each peak. Awesome day out for anyone looking for an adventure.
Even partially obscured by lowly Middle Cathedral it’s still the most inspiring wall in the world. El Cap in all its glory. And Yosemite Falls just peeking out in the distance. Beautiful day in the Valley. @thenorthface
Happy Earth Day from the most beautiful place on earth. Stoked to be back in my happy place.