Super sad to hear about the passing of young Canadian alpinist Marc-Andre Leclerc. He and his partner Ryan Johnson had been overdue since last week after climbing a route outside of Juneau Alaska.
Marc was a huge inspiration to me personally despite being such a young alpinist - he embodied the perfect blend of talent, psyche and humility. A true climber’s climber who had a deep love of adventuring in the mountains.
These pics are from when he passed @colinhaley1 and me on his approach up to Cerro Torre before a mind blowing solo of the Corkscrew the next day. In the second photo you can just make out the tiny black dot in the center of the frame - that’s Marc-Andre sending the gnar on a truly epic, Patagonia scale.
I couldn’t believe that he felt comfortable in such enormous mountains. But it seemed like he was just out having a good time.
My sincere condolences to family and loved ones. Marc was a gem.
I recently did the @richroll podcast - check the link in profile for a good long chat on all kinds of subjects. Rich gave a great interview and guided us along through a really nice chat. It was super fun.
The Dawn Wall!! Great time at the movie premier at SXSW. So stoked to see the whole amazing tale play out on the big screen. Super inspiring seeing all the hard work @tommycaldwell and @kjorgeson put into the climb over so many years. And such good film making by the guys at @senderfilms and @bigupclimbing. I’m all fired up to go climbing now! Get psyched for The Dawn Wall!
I just climbed Epinephrine in 39:50, which I think is the new speed record (someone correct me if they know of a faster time - all I care is that it beat @bradgobright’s time!) Epinephrine was the first route I ever climbed on sandstone, onsight solo way back in the day. Feels good to improve a bit. Lovely day out in Red Rock!!
@cedarwright’s film from @reelrock are now available on Vimeo to buy or rent. I finally watched Stumped for the first time and loved it! And the bonus features for both films are gold. Way to go @moinmountains for Stumped and @bradgobright for Safety Third. Definitely got me all psyched!
Link in profile. @tay.keating photo.
In 2016 @thenorthface started measuring the carbon emissions of athlete expeditions - our Antarctica expedition this winter marks the first time that those emissions are all being offset through a tree planting project with The Conservation Fund. I personally have been offsetting my travel through @mossy.earth but I’m excited that The North Face as a brand is also trying to lower its impact on the world.
It’s easy to criticize offsets in various ways, but my basic feeling is that we shouldn’t let perfect be the enemy of good. Carbon offsets aren’t a perfect solution, but it’s always better to do something than to do nothing and then complain about how helpless we are to affect positive change in the world.
I’m glad that The North Face is offsetting all expeditions moving forward. Certainly a great first step. @jimmy_chin photo of @conrad_anker up high on Ulvetanna from #tnfantarctica17.
I’m getting psyched for the Valley this spring. Been spending a lot of time training in the gym and working in various ways - I can’t wait to get back to big, inspiring walls. @bradgobright and Jim Reynolds broke the Nose speed record last season - might have to revisit the Nose a bit... and looking forward to finishing a free project with @sonnietrotter.
There’s nothing more inspiring than Yosemite!
Big thanks to @jenniloweanker and @conrad_anker for showing us such a good time in the Great White North. Still not converted to snow sports but we had a great time - a nice trip to @yellowstonenps, some casual ice climbing, and two awesome ski days. Now back to sport climbing...