Out of Eden Walk@outofedenwalk

National Geographic Fellow and Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist Paul Salopek is walking across the globe in the footsteps of our ancestors. #Edenwalk


"At daybreak, Dawn arrives and softly sits by my bedside
With golden arms she places a crown upon my head."
—R. Tagore, 1883.

Sunrise with field fires, Rajasthan, #India.


There is a strange apartheid of human movement in the Punjab: The poor and jobless opt to slow down, decelerating into drug use; the wealthier speed up into escape orbit. This has been going on for generations. Nobody knows how many Punjabis live across the world, but estimates hover between 8 and 10 million—a third of Punjab’s current population. “Migration to foreign countries has become a question of identity for Punjabis. It has become a status symbol,” writes Aswini Kumar Nanda, a migration expert at the Centre for Research in Rural and Industrial Development. // Read a new dispatch from #India (link in bio).


They were displaying the camel’s good nature—for possible rental. We kept our donkey. Near Abohar, #India.


Memories of camels, ghost trees, and a pink Englishman who came to collect taxes in a rare car. Padmaram Shoram Jat, 90. Harasar, #India.

Photo by @aratikumarrao.


Sharing power. Pastoralists. Muktsar, #India. With walking partner @aratikumarrao.


Sugar high at 104° F. Trail stop with walking partners @aratikumarrao and Verinder Singh. Punjab, #India.


A new animal spirit joins the Walk: Raju the earless pack donkey. Muktsar, #India.


Ice cream is life. I grew up on the pushcart helados of the Mexican hinterlands. Catering to every guilty endorphin, the wizened paleteros of my childhood hawked porn comics and cigarettes as well as strawberry cones and lemon ices. On this endless foot journey across the Earth, by contrast, the cold and highly caloric food has proven a fickle reward. It is nonexistent in the Afar Triangle of Ethiopia (average summer temperature 125° F) and largely substituted by baklava in Turkey. But in the former Soviet sphere—the Soviets mastered the industrial production of assault rifles and ice cream—I walked in heaven. Today I trudge through the muzzy brown heat waves of summertime India. Yet I am surrounded by joy: Indians are deeply addicted to ice cream. // Read a new dispatch at the link in our bio. #India #Punjab #icecream


Punjabi farmers in Harike village take a mid-morning pause from their work harvesting paddy. India's largest wetland, Hari-ke Pattan, is now a troubled oasis. Read why at the link in our bio. #India


Punjab navigation: Walking partner @AratiKumarRao consults shopkeepers for bearings. Kulgarhi, #India.


"You will know the path by traveling the path." —Punjabi proverb. Brick roads near Mallan Wala, #India.


Arati Kumar Rao kept a brisk four-mile-an-hour pace under the murderous Punjabi sun. She identified every animal and many of the plants encountered along our path. She hailed all the wild birds—bulbuls, parakeets, francolins, drongos, owls, egrets—with, "You cutie!" She wanted to find a river dolphin. // Paul and his walking guide go on a quest to find the endangered Indus River Dolphin in the Punjab, #India. (Wait for it in the video.) Full story at link in bio.